M4A1 Sherman - 2nd Armoured Division - Carentan

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M4A1 Sherman - 2nd Armoured Division - Carentan

Postby grim_marmazet » Fri Jul 16, 2010 7:03 pm

Despite my many protests to work on other projects, I couldn't resist the tanking addiction and bought a Tamiya Sherman kit from evilbay. :D
My plan with this build is to convert it to a cast hull M4A1, with VVSS working suspension and a 75mm gun and M34A1 mantlet. I plan on adding the switchable MG's and RC controlled lighting I did on my Tiger, in addition to recoil with the 'fast back, slow forward' effect seen on the modified recoil unit in my Tiger. The smoke unit is up for debate, depending on space left after I cut the speaker box down.
I will freely admit I know very little about Allied armour in general, and the Sherman in particular, so it'll be time for many new books, and a lot of research.
I already know there will be some concessions to make. The 2nd Armoured had an interesting camo scheme, but I want mine in plain OD Green, they also used the 3-piece transmission covers on a lot of their Shermans, but I prefer the cast one. As with my Tiger, I will try to make the individual parts as accurate, and functional as I can, but i'm not recreating a specific machine.
Well, some early pictures. Just the basic kit;
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A few of the upgrade parts to start with. The Mato hull and suspension (thanks Dave! :thumbup: ), Schumo drive axel supports, Styrene backboard, and Steel inner base plate. The plate should add some weight, and give a more realistic movement;
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I also have coming the Schumo gearbox support bars, and hex screw set, and a custom rotor shield from Ethan on RCU. I have a few cunning plans for bits I want to enhance, possibly even trying my hand at some metal & resin casting.
The VVSS will be modified to work prototypically following the various mods that have been shown, and i'll be using Tailend Charlie's bearing mod as well, which should prolong the life of the Mato parts.
The first step is done, priming the metal hull, and I hope to have more for you guys later today!
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Cheers,
Rik
Courage is the first of human qualities because it is the quality that guarantees all the others. - Sir Winston Churchill
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Postby grim_marmazet » Fri Jul 16, 2010 7:03 pm

I'm quite glad Aber don't do a photo-etch set for the Sherman, lol, all that soldering brass on my Tiger did my eyes, and mind, in! lol
I'm working at mounting the suspension. I have the backplates on, as per septon's guide;
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I removed the 'lumps' that are ment to be either bolts or rivet as I plan on replacing them with actual bolts;
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I had to relocate the suspension as the wheels were far to close together. This is something to watch out for when mounting the suspension or the wheels will foul each other;
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The next step is to shim the bogies so they don't wobble, and attach the idler mounts. I'm not sure if I want to try to make adjustable idlers, its looks like too much trouble to be worth it. I do want to improve the strength of the mounts with a nut and some brass tube, which will come, as I work it out, lol.
I'm still waiting for parts, and I have to wait for payday to get the Nick Aguilar parts I want, but some little bits are able to be done now.
Cheers,
Rik
Courage is the first of human qualities because it is the quality that guarantees all the others. - Sir Winston Churchill
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Postby grim_marmazet » Fri Jul 16, 2010 7:04 pm

By pure chance I managed to find a picture of a Sherman from the 2nd Armored Division, 66th Tank Regiment. The same regiment that came to the aid of the 101st Airborne on 13th June 1944 at the Battle of Bloody Gulch, outside Carentan. The exact moment I wanted a tank from! :D
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I can't say for certain this tank was there, or even if this picture is from that specific date, but it gives me enough data to go on, even a serial number!
This is going to be a fun build! :D
Cheers,
Rik
Courage is the first of human qualities because it is the quality that guarantees all the others. - Sir Winston Churchill
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Postby grim_marmazet » Fri Jul 16, 2010 7:05 pm

Got a little more done over the last couple of days. It's nice to have a new Tamiya kit to build!
I filled all the original holes on the lower hull for the idler, and return rollers;
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I added the weld between the lower hull and the sponsons;
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I also added the rear access ports on the sponsons. I have no idea what these were for, but i've seen several references for them;
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I stuck on the Schumo styrene back board as well. It's not entirely needed, but gives good strength to the rear of the hull;
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Cheers,
Rik
Courage is the first of human qualities because it is the quality that guarantees all the others. - Sir Winston Churchill
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Postby grim_marmazet » Fri Jul 16, 2010 7:05 pm

I added several bits of lower hull detail. I cut the VVSS bogie mounts out of the bottom of the Mato hull, shaped and sanded them to thickness, and attached them to the bottom of the hull. Apart from one picture Andy sent me, the only pictures of the underside I could find were from other model kits. I used all the features that were common to every M4A1 kit bottom I could find. All I need now is some styrene angle strip between the rear two bogie mounts, and some bolts for the mounts and rear engine access panel.
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I used the hubs from the unused suspension to make the ports on the bottom;
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It's not a perfect replica, and the nuts to hold the gearboxes will be there, but it's close enough.
Hopefully i'll have more to show, if the postman arrives with the bits i've ordered.
Cheers,
Rik
Courage is the first of human qualities because it is the quality that guarantees all the others. - Sir Winston Churchill
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Postby grim_marmazet » Fri Jul 16, 2010 7:06 pm

More details have been added today. I had a day off so sat down and got the rear panel nearly finished.
After a considerable amount of careful drilling, sanding and scraping I managed to hollow out the exhausts, and mount them on brass tube ready for a smoker;
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I used some photo-etch butterfly nuts left over from the Aber Tiger set to add some extra detail to the air filters;
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I used some tow shacle attachments from an HL Pershing (i'll be using the shackles once they're tidyed up, and the hull's painted). I also took the towing hitch from the Mato hull, and used that, the pictures of 2nd AD Shermans I can find seem to have them;
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Last, a shot of the rear. I think I may relocate the tow shackle attachments a bit further up the hull, the pictures i've seen seem to show that;
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Cheers,
Rik
Courage is the first of human qualities because it is the quality that guarantees all the others. - Sir Winston Churchill
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Postby grim_marmazet » Fri Jul 16, 2010 7:06 pm

I've finished the lower hull and rear panel detailing, weld seams and access panels, then whacked on a coat of primer;
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Unfortunately, I can't do anymore until I can get more parts. I should be ordering the cast hull, transmission cover, 75mm gun and M34A1 mantlet next week. The parts are made by Nick Aguilar, and are fantastic quality. I also should be getting the bearings and other parts to make the suspension fully functional.
At the end of the month, i'll be getting the Pershing MFU and recoil unit, and the other electronical parts I need, like the Co-axial MG, upgraded speaker, RC switch for the lights, Receiver and battery. I'm also going to change all the connections for deans connectors, and shorten wires to save space.
But for now, it's just a waiting game ;) Hope you all like it so far! :D
Cheers,
Rik
Courage is the first of human qualities because it is the quality that guarantees all the others. - Sir Winston Churchill
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Postby grim_marmazet » Fri Jul 16, 2010 7:07 pm

I finally started on the suspension today. Its a time-consuming mod!
I got so involved in doing it, I forgot to take my usual amount of how-to pictures, but i'm in the middle waiting for everything to dry, and then I can add the spring parts. The details of this mod can be found on several threads on RCU, and was originally created by Tailend Charlie.
I started with putting 6mm x 3mm bearings in the wheels. This makes them run much smoother and should prevent wear and tear;
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The pivot arms are fixed to a length of 5mm brass rod. This sits in a RC plane landing gear saddle clamp. The conical spring parts from the Tamiya kit are fixed to that;
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The casing itself has some brass angle stock to make a runner (this was craftily made by cutting up a square brass tube left over from my Tiger build ), the 5mm rod on the pivot arms rests in this. The tubes from the Tamiya suspension will have the springs in them, and I plan on filling the extra space with milliput to strengthen the whole thing;
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Finally, I stuck the return roller on a rod, stuck it in a drill and used it as an improvised lathe. I reduced the diameter a bit, as the originals look very over-sized;
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I should be adding the wheel arms tomorrow, but the wheels themselves will stay off until they have been painted. Its not too complex, but as I said, takes a lot of time! Well, one is nearly done, 5 more to go! lol
Cheers,
Rik
Courage is the first of human qualities because it is the quality that guarantees all the others. - Sir Winston Churchill
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Postby grim_marmazet » Fri Jul 16, 2010 7:08 pm

I've started on the second one now, and will endeavour to take pictures of the process.
Credit where credit is due. I took ideas from Tailend Charlie (here) and YHR (here), combined with a few modifications due to being fairly broke, lol.
First take your bogie apart, and take the two top casings. You'll need to remove the posts inside;
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You need to make some runners for inside. I used a hacked up square brass tube, as it's all I had to hand, but you can use styrene or brass channels. The key is to have it centered, and the inside width of the runner needs to be a tad over 5mm;
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Next is to seperate the pivot arms and the wheel arms. I've included an intact one to show where to seperate them. On the wheel arms, make sure you leave a little bit of the pad, so the pivot arms can run on them;
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The next part is the bit that gives the suspension its 'spring'. You need the tubes, springs, and conical sections from the Tamiya suspension, some type of saddle clamp, and some small screws. The saddle clamps were altered to fit the conical sections fine. You can make this bit out of metal if you choose to make it stronger;
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Cheers,
Rik
Courage is the first of human qualities because it is the quality that guarantees all the others. - Sir Winston Churchill
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Postby grim_marmazet » Fri Jul 16, 2010 7:08 pm

You use the screws and a liberal amount of CA to hold the conical section and the springs to the clamp. This whole section will sit in the metal tubes which will be fixed in the casing section. This will give the suspension its flexability and movement;
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Thats it until the glue drys and I get back from work, then part two will show how to fit the springs in and how to build up the arms.
Cheers,
Rik
Courage is the first of human qualities because it is the quality that guarantees all the others. - Sir Winston Churchill
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